Cars - How to Diagnose a Slipping Clutch in Your Car

How to Diagnose a Slipping Clutch in Your Car

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The clutch on a manual transmission car usually lasts anywhere from four to seven years, depending on where you drive (in the city, on hills, etc.) and your personal driving habits.

 

 

Difficulty: Easy

Instructions

1. Note poor gas mileage.
   
   
2. Notice if you need to downshift more frequently when going up hills.
   
   
3. Take note if the engine sounds like it's revving when you accelerate or start moving from a stop.
   
   
4. Be aware if the clutch can no longer be adjusted to create more pedal "free play."
   
   
5. Notice if the clutch pedal begins to feel stiff and requires more force to depress it.
   
   
6. Make sure the clutch is properly adjusted: You should feel about 1/2 inch of free play (or slack) at the clutch pedal when you first put your foot lightly on the clutch pedal.
   
   
7. Put the handbrake on.
   
   
8. Turn the engine on.
   
   
9. Depress the clutch pedal and put the transmission in fourth gear.
   
   
10. Slowly let up on the clutch while stepping on the gas pedal.
    
    
11. If you are able to completely release the clutch pedal without the engine stalling (or the car moving), your clutch is history.

Cars - How to Free a Car Stuck on Ice or Snow

How to Free a Car Stuck on Ice or Snow

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Drivers living in snowy regions quickly become pros at maneuvering cars through deep snow. The rest of us may need a little help freeing a car that gets stuck in snow. Try these maneuvers, one at a time.

 

 

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Sand, Salt, Dirt, Cat Litter or a Piece of Carpet
• Shovel
• Several People to Help Push

1. Put the transmission into four-wheel drive (if your car has it).
   
   
2. Shift into the lowest gear available.
   
   
3. If the car won't go forward, put it into reverse and try backing up.
   
   
4. Turn the steering wheel slightly and try driving in a different direction.
   
   
5. Grab your shovel and remove as much snow as you can from in front of all the wheels.
   
   
6. Determine which wheel(s) are slipping by having a friend look at the wheels while you step on the accelerator. Place sand, salt, dirt, cat litter or a piece of old carpet in front of the slipping wheel(s).
   
   
7. Ask friends or passersby to push while you slowly depress the gas pedal. Make sure nobody is standing in front of the car. Be careful--accelerating too much makes the tires spin and heats up the snow underneath, turning it into ice.
   
   
8. Be prepared to steer and brake after your wheels gain traction.
   

Cars - How to Turn on a Car Without a Key

How to Turn on a Car Without a Key

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There are a few different ways to start a car without a key.

 

key image by Bosko Martinovic from Fotolia.com

Starting a car without a key is often attributed to illegal car theft. However, there are valid, legal instances when a car may need to be started without a key. Starting a car without a key may be necessary when purchasing a junker, when the ignition lock goes bad or when the vehicle's key is lost. A car can be started without a key by using either a screwdriver or by hot wiring the steering column.

 

 

Difficulty: Challenging

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Knife
• Philips screwdriver
• Flat-head screwdriver
• Electrical tape

Screwdriver

1. Remove the plastic cover around the steering column using a Philips screwdriver. Place the screws in a plastic bag or cup to keep them from getting lost. Set the plastic covers aside.
   
   
2. Break the lock cylinder by inserting a screwdriver behind the cylinder and prying outward until it pops free. Discard the lock cylinder.
   
   
3. Insert a flathead screwdriver into the slot where the cylinder was positioned. Turn the screwdriver as if it were a key and the vehicle will start.
   
   

Hot Wire

4. Remove the plastic steering column panels using a Philips screwdriver. Set the panels aside and place the screws in a safe location.
     
   
5. Pull the bundle of wires from beneath the steering column until they are all visible. Remove any tape or binding that may be holding them together.
   
   
6. Locate the two wires that are identical in color. Pull these wires free of the steering column. Strip a small amount of plastic off the exposed end of each wire. Twist the two exposed wires together. Wrap the wires together using electrical tape so that they cannot come apart.
   
   
7. Trace the wire from the ignition coil to identify the ignition wire under the steering column. In the majority of vehicles, the ignition wire is brown. Pull this wire free of the harness and strip the end.
   
   
8. Touch the end of the ignition wire to the end of the two stripped wires. This will cause the car to crank and start. Separate them as soon as the engine starts. Do not allow them to touch each other or the metal of the vehicle.

Cars - How to Shut Off a Car Alarm That Won't Quit

How to Shut Off a Car Alarm That Won't Quit

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It's annoying when a neighbor's car alarm won't quit and embarrassing when your own is the culprit. Knowing how your particular alarm works will save you (and others) from ringing ears. Read through the owner's manual before you have a problem. When the alarm is blaring, your wits may desert you.

 

 

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Fuse Puller Or Needlenose Pliers

1. Check for user error. Consult the owner's manual for directions on how to turn the car alarm on and off.
   
   
2. Put the key in the ignition and try to start the car. On many systems this will shut off the alarm.
   
   
3. Find the alarm's fuse. It may be in the fuse box, usually located below the steering wheel to the left. Many cars also have other fuse boxes (sometimes three or even more) inside the engine compartment. If it's an aftermarket alarm (installed after the car left the factory), you'll find the fuse under the hood, usually on a wire connected to the positive battery terminal.
   
   
4. Locate the fuse that has the alarm label. You should find a fuse diagram on the lid of the fuse box. An aftermarket alarm won't have any label. Don't worry; removing the wrong fuse won't cause any damage. If you pull out a fuse and the alarm stays on, put that fuse back in and try another.
   
   
5. Pull the alarm fuse with the fuse puller (sometimes found in the fuse box) or a pair of needle-nose pliers. Sometimes you can remove a fuse using your fingers.
   
   
6. As a last resort, disconnecting the battery's negative terminal will stop the alarm, but it will also keep your car from starting.
   

Cars - Effects of Car Exhaust

Effects of Car Exhaust

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1. Automobile engine exhaust has been blamed for everything from cancer to the melting of polar ice caps, but what are its true effects? In theory, a pure internal combustion process event would produce only carbon dioxide and water, but the actual output of an engine is much more complex. Inefficient combustion, additives in gasoline and nitrogen in the air itself all lead to unwanted emissions that have varying effects on both the environment and the individual.

Carbon Dioxide

2. The most notorious and well-known component of internal combustion is carbon dioxide (CO2). This natural byproduct of the combustion event is considered a major greenhouse gas. Greenhouse gases collect in the upper atmosphere and trap the sun's heat, leading to an overall increase in global temperature. This effect is more concentrated in some places than others.

Carbon Monoxide

3. Carbon monoxide (CO) is a close cousin of carbon dioxide, and its dangers are a little more localized than those of its kin. When inhaled in quantities as low as 667 ppm (parts per million), CO begins to convert up to 50 percent of the body's oxygen-carrying hemoglobin to carboxyhemoglobin. This molecule is ineffective at delivering oxygen to the cells, and leads to an effect similar to strangulation. The immediate effects of CO poisoning are headache, nausea, drowsiness and ultimately death.

Nitric Oxides

4. The extremely high combustion chamber temperatures of high-compression and turbo-charged engines often produce nitric oxides (NO and NO2). In small doses, nitric oxides play an important role in cellular communication and help to protect the liver. However, large doses of NOs are known to cause vascular collapse and septic shock. Chronic inhalation of NOs have been linked to arthritis, ulcerative colitis, juvenile diabetes, birth defects/DNA mutation and multiple sclerosis.
   
   Studies conducted by Environmental Health Perspectives in 1999 have concluded that lab mice who were exposed to a minuscule 12 ppm of NOs for six hours a day over a period of three months developed severe endocrine (hormonal) disorders. The effects of these disorders include a low sperm count and inhibition of several growth hormones.

Environment Effects

5. The environmental effects of automobile exhaust are essentially a macrocosm of the changes caused in an individual. NOs float into the upper atmosphere to form nitric acid, which is a major component of acid rain and smog. When that rain hits the ground, it leaches into the soil, and thus the groundwater.
   
   Unburned hydrocarbons (gasoline) from the exhaust present a similar danger to the groundwater and soil, as they are heavier than air and will immediately settle to the earth. If you've ever witnessed the effect used motor oil has on grass, then you have a pretty good idea of what hydrocarbons can do to anything still living.

Cars - How to Wire a Car Stereo System

How to Wire a Car Stereo System

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Ready to connect the wires?

 

How to Wire a Car Stereo System

Wiring your car stereo system yourself is a relatively simple process for those with even the most basic knowledge of electrical wiring or automotive repair, and is a great way to save money on your car stereo system.

Difficulty: Moderate

Instructions

Things You'll Need:

• Guide to removing the dash and speaker panels of your car
• Pliers
• 9 volt battery
• Utility knife
• Wire cutters
• Screwdrivers
• Small piece of sand paper.
• Wire strippers
• Amplifier wiring kit
• Electrical tape

Overview of Car Stereo Systems

1. Understand the basics of all car stereo systems. A car stereo system consists of 4 main components and the wiring that connects them. These are the head unit, the main speakers, optional amplifiers and the subwoofers, which are also optional but generally considered a necessary part of any good system.
   
   
2. Know that the core of any car stereo is the head unit, which is the cassette or CD player that goes in the dash. All the other components are connected to the head unit by at least one pair of wires.
   
   
3. Know about car speakers. The main speakers are usually 2 in the front and 2 in the back, although with what are known as component speakers, each speaker is broken down into two speakers: one for the highs and one for the bass. Each speaker or speaker set (known as a channel) connects to the head unit via a pair of wires. Generally if you are installing a new head unit you want to install new speakers.
   
   
4. Know about amplifiers. Amplifiers provide extra power to your speakers and/or extra channels of power for additional speakers. The most common use for an amplifier (amp) is to power subwoofers. The amp connects to your head unit via an RCA cable and often a "remote on" wire, and also connects directly to your car battery through a fused "hot" wire and to the car's chassis with a short ground wire. This article assumes the use of a single amplifier connected to a pair of subwoofers. If you do not have these components simply ignore the steps specific to the amp, doing so will not affect the rest of your installation.
   
   
5. Know about subwoofers. Subwoofers are part of any good stereo system. They provide the deep bass that small speakers cannot achieve. Subwoofers are connected to the amplifier which can usually be mounted right to the subwoofer box. If you do not have subwoofers you can simply ignore the steps specific to them.
   
   

Preparing for the Installation

6. Be properly prepared. This is extremely important since you do not want to realize you're missing something in the middle of the installation.
   
   
7. Purchase the following: A car stereo wire harness which connects the existing wiring for your old head unit to your new one (this will be specific to BOTH the model and year of your car AND to the make of your new head unit); an amplifier wiring kit which will contain all the wires to get power and signal to your amplifier; six feet of 14-gauge speaker wire for the subwoofers. Your speakers should have come with their own speaker wires.
   
   
8. Obtain a guide to removing the dash, doors panels (or whatever compartment the speakers are in), and floor molding of your car. You may be able to find a guide for this online. If not, you can get a repair manual for your car at most automotive stores and online).
   
   
9. Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers to fit the job, pliers, wire cutters, wire strippers, a utility knife, sand paper or a file, electrical tape, a 9-volt battery, and any other tools that the instructions for installing the head unit and your car guides specify.
   
   

The Installation

10. Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery first and foremost. NEVER work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
    
    
11. Install your new speakers. Start by removing the paneling of the speaker enclosure. Unscrew and disconnect the old speaker.
    
    
    Ideally the speaker wire will be connected to the old speakers with a metal clip that can then slide right on to your new ones. If not, cut the wire off the old speakers, strip about half an inch of it, then cut the last 6 inches or so off the speaker wire that came with your speakers so you have the proper connectors with a little wire attached, strip a half inch of those wires and twist connect them to the existing speaker wire. Bend the twists so they are in-line with the wire and wrap each connection in electrical tape so no wire is showing to protect them.
    
    Attach the connectors to your new speaker. Make sure to connect the negative wire (-/black) to the negative terminal on the speaker and the positive wire (+/red or white) to the positive one. Screw the speaker in place. If you have component speakers, and therefore a crossover, make sure the crossover is secured in the speaker compartment so that it does not bounce around while you drive.
    
    Wait to put the speaker enclosures back together until you have installed the head unit.
    
    
12. Follow the instructions you got for removing whatever part of the dash covers it and take out your existing head unit. Connect the car stereo wire harness to the connector that was attached to your old radio and attach the other end to your new one. Connect the antenna cable (the single wire with the big plug at the end) to your new head unit as well.
    
    If the speaker wires are separate from the harness connect them using the method of stripping, twisting, and taping described above. Do this one at a time or use masking tape to label the wire to avoid confusion. If you are having trouble figuring out which wires go to which speaker or which is positive and negative read the tip at the bottom of this section.
    
    Do not put your new head unit into the dash yet-you still need to connect the amplifier to it. Put the speaker enclosures back together now.
    
    
13. Attach the thick positive (+/red) power cable for your amplifier to the connector on positive terminal of your battery. The kit you purchased should have come with an o-ring on one end of the wire (you may have to crimp it on yourself, if so do it on the end with the fuse), this ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery.
    
    
14. Put the fuse in the fuse holder.
    
    
15. Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the drivers side) and along to the back of the car where your amp is. It is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car, you never want the power cable to come near any speaker wires. At the same time run the remote on wire (a really thin wire from the amplifier wiring kit), through the dash where the head unit will sit, along with the power cable to the amp.
    
    
16. On the other side of the car run the RCA signal cable through the dash from the head unit to the amp (it's a pair of wires together with connectors on each end).
    
    
17. In the back of the car pick exactly where your amp and subwoofers are going to go. Part of choosing this is that the thick black ground cable (negative) needs to have a place to connect to the metal frame of your car. This should be as short as possible, you never want the ground cable to be longer than 3 feet.
    
    
18. Find a good screw or bolt, take if off and sandpaper the metal surface that the o-ring will make contact with, then screw it down tightly.
    
    
19. Attach the RCA signal cable and the remote on cable to your head unit and attach the power, ground, RCA signal, and remote on wires to your amp.
    
    
20. If you have not already done so, place your subwoofer box in the trunk and attach your amplifier to it if that is what you are doing. If you are not going to screw your amp to the subwoofer box then it must be secured to something else.
    
    
21. Attach the 14-gauge speaker wires to the left and right channels of the amplifier and to the speaker connectors of the subwoofer box.
    
    
22.  Mount your head unit into the dash. Double check all of the connections on the back of it to make sure they are secure. Then slide your head unit into its slot in the dash and screw it securely in place. Before you re-attach the dash, reconnect the ground (negative) cable to your car battery and turn the stereo on and move around the car listening to each speaker to make sure everything is working properly. Then put the dash back on. You are all done!
    
    

    Tips & Warnings

    • If you are preparing to hook up speaker wires and you are not sure which is negative and which is positive or which wires go to which speaker, take a 9-volt battery and touch the speaker wires to the the battery. One of the speakers will move. If the speaker moves forward (or out), then you have touched the positive lead of the speaker to the positive terminal of the battery. If the speaker moves back (or in) then the wire touching the positive terminal of the battery is the negative speaker wire.
       
    • Never have your speaker or signal wires run near your amplifier's power cables. If they must cross do so perpendicularly and only in one spot.
       
    • Never EVER work on the electrical system of your car with the ground wire attached to the battery. You can damage yourself and your equipment.
    
    

Cars - How to Install a Car Amplifier

How to Install a Car Amplifier

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Install a Car Amplifier

 

How to Install a Car Amplifier

To get the full effect of your car's audio system, you may want to install a car amplifier to power the speakers. Additionally, if you wish to use subwoofers you'll need an amplifier to power them. Installing a car audio amplifier yourself is a fairly simple task that will save you money on your car stereo system. This guide shows you how to install a car amplifier for either of the above purposes.

Things You'll Need:

• Wire Cutters and Pliers
• Car Manual
• O-ring Ends
• Car Audio Cables and Wires
• Sandpaper
• Utility Knife
• Masking Tape and Pen
• Wire Strippers
• Female Spade Connectors
• Screwdrivers
• Car Audio Amplifier

Preparation

1. Choose where to put your new amp. If you are installing subwoofers it's usually best to put the amplifier in the trunk next to or attached to your subwoofer enclosure. If you are going to power your main car speakers with the amplifier then it may be better to put the amp under the passenger's seat.
   
   
2. Purchase the following wiring for the amp: A thick power cable (the thickness required depends on the total wattage of your amp, ask a sales rep or consult your amplifier's manual for the proper gauge) that will have to reach from your battery to the amp (the power cable should also have an inline fuse to protect the amplifier); 3 feet of ground cable of equal thickness as the power cable; an RCA signal cable to carry the left and right signals from your head unit to the amp; a "remote on" wire which can be any thin wire (20 to 24 gauge) that will also run from the head unit to the amp; speaker wire (if you are powering subwoofers you should only need about 3 feet of 12-gauge wire per sub, if you're going to power your main speakers you will need enough 16-gauge wire to reach each speaker from the amp, 12 feet per speaker is usually safe).
   
   
3. Gather the following tools: Screwdrivers, wire cutters, wire strippers, pliers, a utility knife, sandpaper, masking tape with a pen for labeling, 2 crimp-on o-ring ends for the power and ground cables. If you're hooking the amp to your speakers, you'll also need 2 crimp-on female spade connectors for each speaker.
   
   
4. Find a manual with instructions on taking off the dash of your car (not the whole dash--just the head unit, in order to hook wires to the back), and also to get at your car's speakers if you are hooking the amp to them.
   
   

The Installation

5. Disconnect the ground (negative) cable from your battery. Never work on the electrical system of your car with this connected.
   
   
6. Attach the side with the fuse of the thick positive (+/red) power cable to the connector on the positive terminal of your battery; the o-ring can be sandwiched in the bolt on the connector that connects your car to the battery. Now put the fuse in the fuse holder.
   
   
7. Run the power cable through the firewall of your car (there is usually an opening on the driver's side) and to your amplifier. If your amp is in the back it is usually best to run this wire under the plastic molding that goes along the bottom edge of your car. Be careful where you run the wire because the power cables should never be near the signal or speaker wires.
   
   
8. Find a metal bolt or screw on the metal of your car near the amp to connect the ground cable to. This should be as close to the amp as possible, never more than 3 feet. Unscrew it and clean the metal surface with sandpaper. Attach the ground to it with the o-ring and screw it back down firmly.
   
   
9. Remove your head unit and run the signal and remote on wires from behind the head unit to your amp. Connect the RCA connectors and the remote on wire to the back of your head unit.
   
   
10. (If you are installing subwoofers and not running your normal speakers off the amplifier skip to step 7.) Run the 16-gauge wire from each one of your speakers to the amplifier. On the amp side use the masking tape to label each wire so you know which speaker it is. On the speaker end-strip a 1/4 inch off the ends of the wires and crimp on the female spade connectors with your pliers. Connect the spade connectors to your speakers making sure to match the positive (+/red or white) with the positive terminal and the negative (-/black) with the negative one.
    
    
11. Connect everything to your amplifier. Only strip off as much as you need off the end of each wire to make a solid connection, you don't want any exposed wire hanging out. If you have subs, attach them to the amp with the 12-gauge speaker wire.
    
    
12. Secure your amp to something. If it is in the back you can screw it directly to your subwoofer enclosure. If it is under a seat you may just want to get some straps that hold it down.
    
    
13. Reconnect your car's negative cable to the battery. Test your system and make sure everything works, going around to see that every speaker is on before you put everything back together.
    
    
14. Put everything back together.
    
    

Cars - How to Buy a New Car in a Recession

How to Buy a New Car in a Recession

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You can get a great deal on a new car in a recession.

car key #5 image by Adam Borkowski from Fotolia.com

If you are in the market for a new car, a recession is the best time to buy. Dealerships will offer deep discounts on current model vehicles and last year's vehicles. Some of the best offers are from the previous year. Many of the cars from the previous year remain unsold and have never been driven. Dealerships will fight for your business by offering you incentives. According to the New Cars website, you can use the rebates and incentives to afford that luxury or hybrid car.

Difficulty: Easy

 

Instructions

1. Check your credit score. Arm yourself with the knowledge you need to get the best interest rate possible. Once you get your credit score check some of the online credit sites to see what you qualify for. If you don't understand what you qualify for you will be at the mercy of the dealership finance department. Prepare before you go so you can negotiate a much better deal.
   
   
2. Investigate dealership incentives. Every dealership is different. Pick three car models you are interested in and call the dealership. Ask them to explain the incentives and take notes. Once you decide on your new car, make sure you get all the incentives offered by the dealership.
   
   
3. Set a budget and stick to it. Have a monthly payment in your mind you can afford. Keep your car loan terms less than four years. Your new car will depreciate as soon as you drive off the lot. Extending payments with their creative financing will have you upside-down in the loan if you are not careful. Upside-down means you owe more than it is worth.
   
   
4. Set boundaries when you enter the car dealership. Sales people will be ready to sell you their top of the line car when you have a bargain basement budget. Listen to the pitch but make sure once they finish you instruct them to point you toward the new car in your price range. Taking control of your buying experience will give you confidence and control of the money you are spending.
   
   
5. Visit three car dealerships before you make a decision. You want to make sure you are confident about your buying decision. You will also be offered extras you don't need. According to "Consumer Reports," don't accept unnecessary services and fees.

Cars - Honda Fit Vs. Yaris

Honda Fit Vs. Yaris

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The Fit and Yaris are vehicles manufactured by automotive companies Honda and Toyota, respectively. The main similarity between the two cars is that they are subcompact economy cars.

Models

1. The Honda Fit is designed as a hatchback and has a more sports-oriented edition. The Yaris is divided into sedan and hatchback styles.

Engines and Transmissions

2. The Fit comes with a 1.5-liter 117-horsepower inline 4-cylinder engine, with a choice between 5-speed automatic and manual transmissions. The Yaris has a 1.5-liter 106-horsepower inline 4-cylinder engine with either a 4-speed automatic or a 5-speed manual transmission.

Safety Features

3. The Fit and the Yaris each have an antilock brake system and head and side airbags. Additional standard features in the Honda Fit include power door locks and a vehicle anti-theft system, with keyless entry, and traction and vehicle stability control systems in the sports edition.

Interior Features

4. Interior features in the Fit and Yaris include tilt steering wheels and tire inflation/pressure monitors. The Fit has more interior features, though, with a trip computer and a stereo system comprising a radio and CD player standard in all models.

Exterior Features

5. While all Yaris cars have steel wheels, the Fit's wheels are slightly bigger, and its sports-oriented lineup comes with alloys. Power windows, power adjustable side mirrors and daytime running lights are also standard with the Fit.

Cars - How To Compare A Prius And An Escape Hybrid

How To Compare A Prius And An Escape Hybrid

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According to MSN Autos, a hybrid is a vehicle that combines different fuel aspects, such as the use of gasoline and also electric in order to reduce emissions. Comparing the 2010 Toyota Prius and 2010 Ford Escape hybrids, can help show different features for those searching for a "greener" way to drive to work or play.

Style

1. The 2010 Ford Escape Hybrid is an SUV that can seat five comfortably, with a large cargo trunk area. The model can also come with many available features like a roof rack, moon roof, 4WD, SYNC technology, and more. The 2010 Toyota Prius Hybrid is four-door sedan that seats five. This model comes with features like 6-disc changer with satellite radio, voice-activated navigation system, climate control and much more, depending upon cost.

Mileage

2. Hybrids are also known for their efficiency in regards to gasoline use. According to the Ford website, the 2010 Escape Hybrid gets 34 miles per gallon (mpg) in the city and 31 mpg on the highway. According to the Toyota website, the 2010 Prius gets 51 mpg in the city and 48 mpg on the highway.

Prices

3. Consider the prices, when comparing both the 2010 Prius and 2010 Escape Hybrids. According to the Ford website, a 2010 Ford Escape Hybrid base price starts at $29,860. According to the Toyota website, a 2010 Toyota Prius Hybrid base price starts at $22,800.

Cars - Information On The Toyota Yaris

Information On The Toyota Yaris

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Sakichi Toyoda established Toyoda Automatic Loom Works in 1926 to mass-produce his invention: the automatic loom. Toyoda added an auto manufacturing department in 1933. In 1937, his son Kiichiro Toyoda took over the automobile department and created the Toyota Motor Company.

History of the Yaris

1. The Toyota Yaris was introduced first to Europe in 1999 where it became Toyota's top-selling model. The Yaris became available to the U.S. market in 2007 as a replacement for the Toyota Echo.

Body Styles

2. The Yaris comes in three different body styles, each with front wheel drive and the option of a manual or automatic transmission. The Yaris is offered as a 4-door sedan, a 3-door liftback or a 5-door liftback. Each has a seating capacity of five persons and a fuel efficiency rating of 29 mpg (miles per gallon) in the city and 36 mpg on the highway.

Features

3. All style options come equipped with a 1.5 liter 4-cylinder engine, anti-lock brakes, air conditioning, audio package with four speakers, 12-V outlet, remote hood and fuel door release, 14-inch steel wheels, AM/FM antenna, front and side airbags and traction and stability control. Optional features and package choices include 15-inch alloy wheels, cruise control, satellite radio compatibility, remote entry system, sport-style seats, power doors and windows and front and rear spoilers.

Cars - How To List A Used Car

How To List A Used Car

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Used car listings are important to the activity of selling a car.

yellow car, a honda japanese sport car model image by alma_sacra from Fotolia.com

Used car listings are a tool used by automobile sellers to explain their cars location, price and features available. Often, the car listing is written in a type of shorthand with abbreviations for the cars features. The listings can appear in several different mediums such as newspapers, on-line directories, on-line auction houses and car sale periodicals. The listings are sent to the publisher or web program and then displayed to the public. Online listings are generally more thorough and include several pictures and a general car history. The published car listings are often three to four lines.

Difficulty: Moderately Easy

Instructions

1. Determine the value of the car using a car value resource website. Clean the car as best as possible or have it professionally detailed. Make sure to vacuum, remove streaks from the glass, and wipe down the exterior engine parts.
   
   
2. Compose a newspaper ad about 15 words long, include the value, make, year, model and features of the car. Abbreviate the year of the car by dropping the first two digit (example 2009 ford explorer = '09 ford exp.) and use this as a title for the ad.
   
   
3. Abbreviate features using the first letter. For example, use PW instead of power windows. Make sure to include contact information such as first name and phone number. Mention if the price is negotiable.
   
   
4. Use full words and not abbreviations for online ads. Add anecdotes for the online ads. For example, "got me to work dependably for years." The price is generally free and not per word. Upload the online ad to a website that hosts online car ads.

Cars - What Is An SR22 Coverage?

What Is An SR22 Coverage?

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An SR-22 is required for some motorists to operate a vehicle.

girl in car image by Clark Duffy from Fotolia.com

A Certificate of Financial Responsibility (CFR), more commonly known as an SR-22, is a certificate required by individual states that proves you have auto insurance liability coverage. Most often, it applies to individuals with certain driving violations that make them a high risk. An SR-22 is much more costly than regular auto insurance coverage and if mandated in your state, you will need to purchase it to maintain driving privileges.

Who Needs an SR-22

1. You may be required by your state to purchase an SR-22 from your auto insurance carrier if you had a high risk violation such as a DUI conviction, a reckless driving citation or were in an accident without having auto insurance. You may be ordered by the courts or notified by the Department of Motor Vehicles to purchase an SR-22 if you want to be allowed to continue your driving privileges.

How to Get an SR-22

2. You'll need to contact your auto insurance carrier to purchase an SR-22. It's not uncommon to have to pay up to four times more for an SR-22 certificate than regular no-fault insurance.

Non-Owners SR-22

3. In many states if you don't own a car but still drive (for example, a company car or a family member's car) you will still be required to purchase an SR-22 Non-Owners certificate if you've had certain violations.

Cars - The Diminished Value of a Car After an Accident

The Diminished Value of a Car After an Accident

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Diminished value is usually taken as a loss.

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A guy runs a red light and slams into your car and now its value has just been diminished by several thousand dollars. Faced with an insurance claim, you wonder whether you can collect for diminished value. Your chances are slim, but it is possible to pursue a claim for diminished value in a few states.

Identification

1. Your car's value drops after it's been in an accident, even if it's been repaired by a highly reputable auto body shop. The difference in dollar amount between what your car was worth before the wreck and it's value in its repaired condition is known as diminished value--or diminution of value.

Causes

2. If an insurance company refuses to authorize necessary repairs recommended by a body shop, a car diminishes in value because of "claim-related" reasons. "Repair-related" causes result when a car is repaired by an inferior mechanic or when substandard parts are used.

Recourse

3. Insurance companies will pay for damage repairs after an accident, but in most states they don't have to pay a penny for diminished value claims. Some states examine who's at fault before they'll even consider making an insurer pay. In other states, the insurer is mandated to pay no matter who was at fault.

Cars - How to Transfer a New Car Warranty

How to Transfer a New Car Warranty

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Even a brand new car can have expensive problems.

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A new car is a complex piece of machinery and if any of a thousand parts should fail, your new car could need expensive repairs. Who pays for these repairs? If you have a new car warranty, then most repairs are covered and are paid for by the dealer or an insurance company. Transferring this new car warranty to a new buyer when you sell your vehicle can make your vehicle more attractive and more valuable.

Difficulty: Easy

 

Instructions

Transferring a New Car Warranty

1. Read your new car warranty carefully to see if it is transferable to a new buyer. Most are, but some new car warranties are void if you sell your vehicle. Most new car warranties are based on the vehicle identification number (VIN) of the vehicle itself and not on the name of the owner, so the warranties are fully transferable--but check at the time of purchase as there are notable exceptions.
   
   
2.   Hand the transferable new car warranty to the buyer of your car at the time of sale. Inform them that they need to contact the car's warranty department (listed on the warranty) and inform them that the car has been sold and that they are the new owners.
3. Fax the title and or registration to the warranty department if requested. This must be done by the new owners, informing the warranty department that the title has changed hands. There is seldom any fee involved in transferring a new car warranty.
   

Transferring an Extended Warranty

4. Read the extended warranty carefully. If the extended warranty is transferable (most are, but some are not) then there will be detailed instructions you need to follow to transfer the extended warranty to the new owners of your car.
   
   
5. Call the dealership from which you purchased the extended warranty if you are unsure of the transfer procedure. They will provide you with all of the information you need.
   
   
6. Fill out a transfer of ownership form (provided to you by the dealership which sold you the extended warranty in the first place) and pay any applicable fees. Make certain that it is clearly spelled out at the time of sale who is responsible for paying the transfer of ownership fee--the seller or the buyer of the car.
   

Cars - How to Compare Minivans by Safety & Quality

How to Compare Minivans by Safety & Quality

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National publications and government websites can help you compare minivan safety and quality.

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Price is at the top of many buyers' minds when shopping for a new vehicle, but examining quality and safety can also help you choose the best new ride for your family. There are several sources available to help you investigate those factors when you compare minivans.

Vehicle Safety Ratings

1. The Insurance Institute for Highway Safety puts vehicles through crash tests and uses the results to assign ratings of good, acceptable, marginal or poor. The 2010 Kia Sedona, for example, received scores of good in front and side crash tests. The government's Safercar website also provides safety ratings.

Rankings

2. The website of "U.S. News and World Report" provides rankings of minivans based on a compilation of reviews and ratings published about the vehicles. The 2011 Toyota Sienna held the top spot in the fall of 2010.

Reviews

3. Get opinions from professionals who test drive various minivans by visiting the websites of "Motor Trend," "Consumer Reports," and "Car and Driver." In a review of the 2011 Toyota Sienna LE, for example, "Motor Trend" writer Kim Reynolds says "its muted interior noise is a clear beneficiary of numerous detail changes, including double-sealing of the sliding door bottoms."